Control Box Troubleshooting
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It is normal for the factory diagnostic tool to detect an injector fault with the Boondocker Control Box plugged in. The following information is mostly directed at Arctic Cat M-series sleds but will transfer over to many other models. If you have any specific questions feel free to contact BoonDocker Tech Support at 877-522-7805.
Here are some quick things to check if you are experiencing issues with your Boondocker Control Box.
- Make sure the headlights are plugged in and working- without a sufficient load on the electrical system voltage spikes can occur which will interfere with the control box. Also make sure you are running resistor spark plugs.
- Check to make sure the ground wire on the sled's harness is connected to the chassis - it is very common to see these loose or unattached on the M sleds. If your sled is similar to the M series sleds, the ground wire is attached on the right-side (Mag-side) of the sled on the bolt that goes through the steering hoop to the frame down near the gas tank. Look for a heavy brown wire attached to an eyelet that should be connected behind the nut on that bolt.
- Check the EFI harness for loose connections and frayed wires or shorted wires. Often with twin pipes, the pipe can rub on the wiring and short it out. Check each connector for a loose wire to terminal connection by gently tugging on each wire near the connector. If a wire does pull out, either send it back to be repaired, or you can solder the wire back on yourself. To remove the terminal from the gray connector, lift up on the lock-tab from the front side using a small screwdriver or a pick and at the same time push the terminal out the back. To remove the terminal from the black connector, grab the terminal with needle-nose pliers from the front side and push on it until it pops out the back.
- Make sure the control box is not resetting itself during operation. To check this, start the sled, push the "Sel" button to go to the 4-menu select screen, run the sled, before the shut off the sled check the screen and see that it is on the same screen (4-Menu). If the box shows to the startup screen (displays version and serial number), this means the box reset itself due to low voltage. This is due to either a bad ground, hi-resistance connection, or a voltage spike. You can check the voltages as shown in step 5 below. Note: the box will always show the startup screen whenever it's re powered.
- If you have a voltmeter, check the voltage between the injector positive wire and ground. On the Mag-side harness there is a gray connector with two red wires. Connect the positive prove to where the two red wires come out of the connector (use a thin probe tip or paperclip to make contact to the terminal inside the connector) and connect the negative probe to where the control box is grounded. At idle, the voltage should be between 19v to 20v DC. The AC voltage reading should be less that 1V. If the DC voltage is below 19V, your sled has a grounding problem. If you have verified the sled's ground is ok, you might have to ground the control box to another wire (black/blue wire on key-switch or ethanol plug).
- When your sled does not start, is it because it's not getting fuel, is it getting too much fuel, or is it not getting spark? Sometimes if the control box is damaged, the sled's ECU will detect a fault on the injector and not provide a spark.
- If the following steps do not fix your problem, Boondocker can inspect and test your box to make sure everything is ok. However, 90% of the time the problem is a wiring issue.
Other Common Questions
- Why am I getting a Mag Injector Error?
- Having the wires transposed in your black connector.
- Having the EFI harness placed next to high current wires. i.e... fuel pump or ignition power wires.
- Some older programming was too sensitive and could show a Mag Inj Error on start-up that should clear when sel button is pushed.
- What does my Battery Jumper do?
- Plugged into the control box will supply power to turn on the control box (requires 9v battery).
- Plugged into the EFI harness allows you to run the snowmobile without the control box (does not require 9v battery).
- I put starting numbers in my box and now it wont start.
- If you are having a problem with the way your sled is running, put the box back to all zero's. If you have input numbers into the control box that were causing a issue this should fix your problem. Often times you can add or subtract fuel in places that will effect the way the sled runs without knowing. For example in a turbo sled if you subtract fuel at -4 or 0 in the TBOL screen this can drastically effect the way the sled idles and or starts.
- Where to add fuel on my turbo sled
- when tuning your turbo you need to focus your tuning in the TBOL and TBOH screens. The engine is mapped from the factory to run naturally aspirated and normally requires little tuning in the RPM ranges.
- N2O Adj Regulator Tuning EFI
- when making changes to the amount of fuel being delivered make sure you are spraying the correct amount of nitrous. The regulator needs to be set to either 180 psi or 340 psi and the changes made to the amount of fuel being delivered at this pressure for the box to correctly adjust the fuel.
- You can run the adjustable regulator with the control box in N2O:fix mode. This will simplify tuning by only giving you one number to adjust. This will require the nitrous to be re-tuned if you turn the regulator, changing the amount of nitrous pressure being delivered.
- N2O Adj Regulator Tuning Carbureted
- Start with the regulator turned out two full turns from being closed and adjust the carbureted manifold so that it is spraying 4-4.5" of pressure. This should be a good starting point for you and you can tune from here.
- Is your control box working?
- a quick check you can do to see if the box is working is to go into the first fuel screen, and make and adjustment at the 3000 lo or 3000 id if available, and go positive and negative 5-15 numbers. If you can hear a change in the engine and it picks up or begins to idle ruff then you know the box is working.
- Where do I find Starting Numbers for My Control Box?
- for naturally aspirated engines you can start tuning with all zero's in the box. If you have Aftermarket Performance Parts contact the manufacturer for starting numbers for your control box.
- for Turbo Charged applications with Boondocker Turbo Kits Boondocker offers starting numbers for our applications.
- The Boondocker Box is able to go from a negative 99 to a positive 128 in most areas. Once the box hits 100 it will display 00 and continue to count up to 28.
- What does the Lo Mid and HI stand for and what does it do?
- The LO Mid Hi refers to your throttle position in any given RPM range. Think of your throttle range as broken up into three sections, Lo being from idle to 1/3 throttle, Mid is 1/3 throttle to 2/3 throttle and Hi is 2/3 throttle to Wide Open Throttle.
- Acel Screen, what is it and what does it do?
- The Acel screen is an Accelerator Pump Feature we added to the Programming for the 2007/2008 snow season.
- AM stands for the AMount of Fuel that will be added when the feature is active.
- DR stands for the DuRation the fuel will be added. You can think of this as each number will represent one revolution of the engine.
- Sens stands for the Sensitivity. This will adjust how easily the Accelerator pump feature becomes active. The lower the number the easier it will turn on. The accelerator pump feature monitors a change in duty cycle due to a change of throttle position. The farther and faster you move your throttle, with a low number in the Sens, the easier the accelerator pump will activate.
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