Technical Support

  • Control Box
  • Nitrous General
  • Nitrous Carb
  • Nitrous EFI
  • Turbo Tech
  • Clutching Specs

AC Black Connectors

  • Check the polarity of the factory wiring and make sure that the positive wire is connected to the red wire on the boondocker box.

Control box ground wire

  • The control box ground needs to be connected to a chassis ground. Verify that your sleds factory wiring harness has a good ground also where it connects to the chassis. You can check the resistance between the two grounds and it should measure less than 2 ohms of resistance.

Jumper

  • You can use a jumper to power the control box with a 9.6v battery which allows you to go through the screens without starting the machine
  • You can use the jumper to by-pass the control box and run the machine without the control box being connected. This allows you to verify the wiring in the EFI harness or run the machine with the control box removed.

Moisture

  • Condensation can occur when the box is subject to temperature changes. Having the box mounted under the hood causes the box to see differences in temperature which can cause moisture to condensate inside the control box

Advanced Mode Instructions

  • Duty Cycle or TPS Based?
    • The control box can be set up to be based off of Duty Cycle or Throttle Position. This will change the way the box looks at lo, md, and hi. If set to DCy it will base the setting off of the injector duty cycle which can change depending upon elevation and air density. When set to TPS mode it will be based strictly off of throttle position.
  • LED Setup
    • You can install a LED to turn on when your in the MD in the control box, when your ACEL feature is active, or when the nitrous is activated.
  • LO2MD and MD2HI transistions
    • This will change when the box transitions from lo to md and from md to hi. Some customers at high elevation (12,000+ foot elevation) may need to lower these points by 2-3 numbers. If you think you may need to adjust these numbers contact a Boondocker Tech.

Using Lo/Md/Hi settings in the control box

  • Lo/Md/Hi
    • The Lo/Md/Hi settings in the box can be setup to be a percentage of duty cycle, or a given throttle position. Either way they end up resulting in the throttle being broken up into three sections. Lo covering the first 1/3, Md the second 1/3, and Hi the last 1/3.
    • When making adjustments in the control box you may have engine mods, pipes, big bore kits, ect that will require more fuel. In this example you would add fuel at the Hi in the higher RPM ranges where you are making additional H.P. requireing more fuel. One common misconception is that you would need to add fuel to the Lo, Md, and Hi at the high RPM ranges which is not correct. This will tell the control box to add fuel during acceleration, at full throttle and on deceleration when at that RPM which can cause tuneability, and rideability issues. Most often time the lo at the higher rpm ranges does not need to be adjusted. This will add or subtract fuel on deceleration and can cause lean pops and or rich bogs when you get back into the throttle or during deceleration.

Using the stats screens

  • The first stats screen
    • The first screen shows you live data. It will show you your current RPM, duty cycle in/out Throttle position (it will display either lo, md, or hi), amount of fuel change (either added or subtracted), if nitrous is activated or if the acel pump feature is activated.
  • The second stats screen
    • This screen will display your max RPM and max duty cycle in/out. This can be very useful when spraying nitrous, running a turbocharger, or big bore kit. The dc out will show 99 if the injector is being held in a static position (wide open) letting you know you are maxed out in terms of duty cycle.
  • The third stats screen
    • This screen can vary depending upon your application. If it is a turbo box you will see max boost, max tps, and max air temp. If running a nitrous capable fuel control box you will see max nitrous fuel added, max nitrous pressure delivered, and max TPS.
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Solenoid wont fire, what do I do?

  • Check all wire connections for loose or broken wires.
  • Using DVOM, check for voltage at the solenoid when pushing the button. If you do not have voltage check for voltage going to the button, and going out of the button when pressed.
  • If you have voltage at the solenoid but it wont fire you can tap lightly on the top to see if it will click. You can also shut off the nitrous bottle and loosen the nitrous line to releave the pressure, if the solenoid is weak it may not open under pressure and will need to be replaced.

Nitrous filter

  • Remove and clean filter after every 10 lbs. of nitrous
  • Be carefull not to over tighten the nitrous filter, it is made of brass and can be overtightened and bottom out in the solenoid preventing nitrous flow.
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Water Manometer

  • Using the water manometer can save you time and money. It allows you to check the amound of pressure being applied to the float bowl allowing you to make sure you are in an tunable range before you begin tuning your system. This also allows you to make sure your system is building pressure and working properly.
  • Instructions

Manifold fuel adjustment screws

  • BoonDocker offers two forms of carbureted nitrous manifolds. A 2000 ver. and a 3000 ver. The 2000 ver. is capable of 70 H.P. and has two adjustment screws, one course and one fine, while the 3000 ver. manifold has one course adjustment screw. Both screws have about 6 turns of adjustment from bottomed out to six turns open. The fine screw will adjust about one inch of water pressure with each turn and the course screw will adjust about two inches of water pressure with each turn.

Manifold vent line

  • The ver. 3000 manifold has a barbed fitting with about a six inch hose coming off. This is the manifold vent line and needs to be left open to atmospheric pressure.
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Setting up the control box for regulated nitrous

  • when you first power the control box you will see an introduction screen. In the bottom right hand corner you will see N20:xxx. The xxx will read NON for a non regulated nitrous system, FIX for a fixed regulator system, or ADJ for adjustable regulator system.
  • It is important that you set up the box for the type of system you are running so that the box can add the correct amount of fuel for the amount of nitrous being delivered. Once the box is setup properly you can then add and subtract fuel in the nitrous menu until you see the best performance.

Adjustable Regulator Tuning

  • Use the stats screen to see what pressure you are spraying and make adjustments to the regulator so that you are spraying either 180 psi or 340 psi and then make fuel adjustments at the appropriate pressure.

Fixed Regulator Tuning

  • With a fixed regulator the nitrous pressure will be fixed so you only need to worry about tuning in the fuel. Since the pressure is fixed with the box set to N20:FIX you will notice there is only one fuel number to adjust in the N20 menu.
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Yamaha Apex

  • Oil Level
    • The most important thing you can do is not overfill your engine with oil. Only fill the engine with the recommended amount of oil. Often times this will result in the oil level being at the bottom of the dip stick when located in the new turbo BD oil tank. Overfilling the engine with oil can cause it to push oil out of the crank case breather, or out of the turbocharger.
  • Vacumm Leaks
    • This 4 stroke engine has an AIC (air idle circuit), fuel pressure regulator, and various other electronics that operate off of engine vacumm. It is important to zip tie all connections so they do not leak or blow off under boost. This can cause ruff idle, popping under acceleration, and various other issues that can be difficult to diagnose and often times confused for a fuel delivery issue.
  • TPS and Idle adjustment
    • We have seen that the sled will have the best throttle response when the idle is set around 1500 RPM, turning up the throttle can take the TPS out of adjustment. We recommend checking the TPS adjustment through the on board diagnostics built into the instrument cluster. Check your Yamaha Service manuel for adjustment and settings.

Turbo Fitment

  • Indexing a turbocharger
    • The compressor housing on most Garrett turbochargers is held in place by a large tappered snapring. You can loosen this snap ring with a pair of snap ring pliers and rotate the housing to any position needed. When adjusted at the Boondocker Factory these are set using a jig but may need to be fine tuned during installation. Note: when rotating the compressor housing it is important to check the wastegate adjustment.
    • The turbine housing (exhaust side) of the turbo is secured with 6 bolts. These bolts can be loosened allowing the turbin housing to rotate. When adjusted at the Boondocker Factory these are set using a jig but may need to be fine tuned during installation. Note: when rotating the compressor housing it is important to check the wastegate adjustment.

Oil pump operation

  • During installation and before each ride it is important to check operation of the oil pump. This can be done holding the compressor wheel carefully by hand, and starting the sled. Loosen the oil line going to the turbo and hold it in a cup to catch the oil. You should see a delivery of around 4 oz per minute. Note:it is not necessary to run the sled and measure the oil delivery before each ride, the important thing it that oil is flowing from the pump.
  • If installing a pump gas or race gas intercooler with fan, be sure and check operation of fan and oil pump after installation. Your fan should be mounted on the under side of you intercooler and draw in air from the top side effectivly pulling air through the intercooler. If the fan is wired in reverse it may cause the fan to try and push air through the intercooler and cause the oil pump to not operate. Please refer to diagram to check proper wiring of components Wiring Diagram

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Clutching Specs

M-800 Pump Gas

  • Economy Kit

  • Primary Clutch
    • 80 gram Arctic Cat weights
    • Arctic Cat Black Primary Spring
  • Secondary Clutch
    • 36/46 Black Diamond helix with reverse notch
    • Factory secondary spring

M-800 Pump Gas

  • High Performance Kit

  • Primary Clutch
    • D&D Magna Force 67-83 gram weights
    • RCS Titanium Primary Spring
  • Secondary Clutch
    • 36/46 Black Diamond helix with reverse notch
    • black/blue team spring

M-800 Race

  • Primary Clutch
    • 75 gram D&D big dog weights
    • Cutler purple/white primary spring
  • Secondary Clutch
    • 44 straight helix (team conversion)
    • black/blue team spring

M-1000 2008-2010 Pump Gas

  • High Performance Kit

  • Primary Clutch
    • D&D MagnaForce weights (81-97 gram)
    • Titanium Yellow/White Primary Spring
  • Secondary Clutch
    • 36/46 Progressive Black Diamond helix
    • Stock orange spring

M-1000 2008-2010 Pump Gas

  • Economy Kit

  • Primary Clutch
    • D&D Big Dog 85 gram weights
    • Arctic Cat yellow/white Primary Spring
  • Secondary Clutch
    • 36/46 Progressive Black Diamond helix
    • Stock orange spring

M-1000 2008-2010 Race Gas

  • Primary Clutch
    • D&D Big Dog 93 gram or MagnaForce weights 86-102 gram
    • Arctic Cat Black Primary Spring
  • Secondary Clutch
    • 36/46 Progressive Black Diamond with Reverse Notch
    • Stock orange spring

M-1200 2008-2010 Race Gas

  • Primary Clutch
    • D&D MagnaForce weights 86-102 gram
    • Arctic Cat Black Primary Spring
  • Secondary Clutch
    • 36/46 Progressive Black Diamond helix
    • Stock orange spring

M-1000 2007 Race Gas

  • Primary Clutch
    • 75 gram D&D big dog weights (4 tower clutch)
    • Cutler purple/white primary spring
  • Secondary Clutch
    • 46 straight helix (team conversion)
    • black/blue team spring

Polaris Dragon 700/800 Race

  • Primary Clutch
    • 72.5 gram SLP lightening weights
    • pink team spring
  • Secondary Clutch
    • 48 str helix .36 or 42/48 straight .36
    • black/orange team spring

Polaris Dragon 700 Pump

  • Primary Clutch
    • 67.5 gram SLP lightening weights
    • Orange Team spring
  • Secondary Clutch
    • 48 str helix .36 or 42/48 straight .36
    • black/orange team spring

Polaris Dragon 800 Pump

  • Primary Clutch
    • 70 gram SLP lightening weights
    • Polaris Almond/Red or Team Orange
  • Secondary Clutch
    • 48 str helix .36 or 42/48 straight .36
    • black/orange Team spring
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